Vava’u Anchorages

July 2014

Here’s our favorite anchorages in Vava’u.  Click on any small picture to enlarge. From there, you can scroll through each set.  Please note:  The map markers only show the general location of an area–they are Not anchorage waypoints.

Neiafu (Anchorages 1 – 3)

This is our home base in Vava’u. This is where we eat (great food), shop (limited stores), and hide out when the wind’s up (like now). It is a great town and it really feels like a second (or third, or forth, or…) home to us now.  It’s listed as anchorages 1 – 3, but it’s actually a mooring field.  There are a couple of spots where it’s possible to anchor, but it’s far easier to to grab a mooring.

Swallows Cave

We swam in here two years ago in Tonga off our whale watch boat. This time, the whale watch boat we were on actually drove into the cave! We were shocked (and delighted). I haven’t giggled that much in a long time.  Being on a tour is a great way to go, but if you have a fast dinghy you can come up here from Port Maurelle.  The water around the cave is very deep; so it’s not possible to anchor next to it.

Port Maurelle (Anchorage 7)

It’s kind of a FIFO buffer. (First in, first out buffer for you non-computerites). It’s where most people stop when they first arrive in Vava’u and where they go as a last stop on the way to distant and not so distant islands. We love the time we’ve spent here. Not only is it a comfortable, safe anchorage, but it’s beautiful too!

Kapa Beach (Anchorage #8 kind of)

Although this anchorage is generally lumped in with the Nuku Island anchorage (#8), it’s actually quite different in its look and feeling from either Nuku and Port Morelle (#7) just north of it.  It’s not quite as lovely as the other two, but it’s pretty enough and has the added benefit of being surprisingly more protected from the prevailing winds.  Because it’s less popular than the other two, it’s easier to find a spot to anchor.  What a pleasure to come in here on a windy day and find only a light breeze wonderfully calm water.  The views of the surrounding flat-topped islands and the huge, friendly yellowfin surgeonfish (that we’ve seen only here) add to its special atmosphere.

Nuku Island (Anchorage #8)

Everything about this anchorage is pretty.  The little island is pretty, the beach is pretty, the water is pretty, the surrounding scenery is pretty, and even the snorkeling is pretty.  There’s not room for many boats though, but the turnover is high so you can often luck into a spot.  This place is best in settled weather, but there is some protection from wind on the west side the island.

Vaka’eitu Island (Anchorage 16)

This anchorage has it all: an area large enough to have a choice of places to anchor, good protection from the wind, a beach to walk on, two of the top snorkeling spots in Tonga (the Coral Garden and the Coral Wonder), and it also happens to be one of the most beautiful (arguably the most beautiful) anchorage in Vava’u. If I had to pick one must-do anchorage for those without a lot of time to spend in Tonga, this would be the one. The only downside is it can get crowded at times, so much so that Rich and I had to turn around and leave the first time we tired to go here. It was well worth trying again, though. (For more information on this anchorage, you can check out the All-Posts-Map section of our blog as we did a few posts about this general area.)

There’s an area that’s also considered Anchorage 16 that’s actually somewhat separate: the sandspit between Vaka’eitu and Langito’o islands. It’s a neat-looking place and very convenient to getting to the Coral Wonder snorkeling area. We only spent a night here because the wind came up the next morning, but were sorry to have to leave this pleasant spot.

Blue Lagoon (Anchorage 14)

The Blue Lagoon is a perfect name for this anchorage as it has some of the bluest water we’ve seen in Tonga.  It’s lovely, but it’s an anchorage best visited in settled weather.  It’s somewhat protected at low tide, but be warned:  high tide tends to make it rolly.  As far as the resort onshore we’ve heard so many varying stories about the stability of the guy who runs it, we decided to take a pass on it.

Hunga Lagoon (Anchorage 13)

This anchorage could easily win the Most-Exotic Vava’u Anchorage award. It’s not the easiest place to go, but it’s worthwhile if you want to see something different. The best way to describe it is to imagine a flooded volcanic crater, nearly enclosed except for a narrow opening (there is a second small opening on the other side, but it’s very shallow). After getting through the rather intimidating entry, you’re in a lagoon surrounded by low hills. I wouldn’t say it’s the most beautiful anchorage, yet it does have a “wow” factor for being so different, and it is actually quite lovely.

Since it tends to be deep here, we found it easiest to pick up a mooring off the Ika Lahi Lodge. We called ahead on the radio and were able to get two moorings, one for us and one for friends arriving behind us. Paying for the moorings gave us reason to go ashore and visit this small fishing resort, which was neat to see. Sometimes Caroline, one of the proprietors, will prepare fish dinners that non-guests can attend, but unfortunately she wasn’t doing that while we were there. We’ve heard they’re really special. You do need to call and reserve for dinner ahead of time, and it’s probably worth a try if you plan to come here.

Avalau (aka Ovalau) (Anchorage 40)

We stopped for lunch here on our whale-watch trip, anchoring just off the beach and swimming ashore.  What a gorgeous place!  It would be well worth anchoring here on a nice day.

Mounu (Anchorage 41)

We made reservations to pick up one of their two moorings and come in for dinner in this first-class resort. It was terrific. Incredible food, incredible atmosphere and nice people. To make it even better, Sergey Brinn from Google dropped by in his little boat to help us with a Google Maps problem. 😉

Tapana Island (Anchorage 11)

Most cruisers in Vava’u refer to the different anchorages by the number assigned by the Moorings Charter Boat guide. We were so excited when we saw that there were 40+ anchorages. Our first season here, we learned the truth: there are only a few that are actually suitable, good anchorages. Number 11 is one of the good ones. We’d forgotten just how good until we spent another night there last week: peaceful, calm, and oh so pretty.

Taunga and Pau Islands (Anchorages 22 and 23)

Although we’ve motored into the anchorages and checked the area out, we’ve never spent the night because of upcoming winds. It’s a beautiful area, though, and will be at the top of our list if we ever get back. While both Taunga and Pau islands have palm-lined white sand beaches and beautiful blue water, the area between Taunga and Pau is the most striking with its bright blue water. Whichever anchorage you choose, you can easily take your dink to the other. Anchorage 21 on the east side of Taunga is should be good if the wind turns westerly, and mantas are rumored to visit that area.

Kenutu (Anchorage 30)

Another place we didn’t get to last time in Tonga. Wow, did we miss out! Kenutu is an island (group of islands, really) on the very eastern edge of Vava’u. You go through a shallow, winding pass to get to the east side, then another shallow, winding pass to get to Kenutu. Worth the effort x 10,000. We loved it here so much that we’re not leaving for Fiji until we get a chance to go back for a second visit.

There’s a structure of sorts built by person or persons unknown to us, out of tree branches, old rope, plastic bag scraps and anything else that washed up on the beach. We survived the climb and what a view!

Fetoko Island (Anchorage 27/28)

On the tiny island of Fetoko is Ben and Lisa’s amazing Mandala Resort. We think this is a must-see. It’s a great anchorage and a beautiful place. Wow, can Lisa cook! (It’s now kind of dream of ours to spend a night in their treehouse room.)  To have dinner, you need to book ahead.  We just took our dink in after we arrived early in the afternoon, booked dinner, then returned that evening for a very special meal.  After dinner, everyone goes and sits around a bonfire on the beach.  The whole experience makes for one of those magical evenings that becomes a lasting memory.

Tongan Beach Resort

This little beachfront resort is really such a special place to visit. Unfortunately the last time we were here (in 2014) they had stopped renting out their mooring because of guest complaints about noise. My hope is that they’ve since reinstated the use of the mooring. If so, the best way to visit is to call ahead and reserve it, then go ashore to enjoy their buffet lunch, drinks at the bar, and/or a nice dinner. We’ve heard it’s possible to anchor off the resort, but it’s quite deep.

Where is all this stuff? (Click on a marker for the name of the location.)

Thar’ be Whales

July 13, 2014 in Vava’u, Tonga

We came here to Tonga to see and swim with whales and it’s looking good.  We heard talk on the radio of whales near Hunga Island and so we motored up that way.  First we saw two huge adults very close to shore.  Then a couple of groups – probably all adults, and finally a mother and calf.  The calf was playing, sticking his cute little nose up (by little, I mean about the size of a full grown VW bug) and slapping the water with his fin.

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In a few weeks, after more mothers give birth and there are more babies around, we’ll get on a local boat and try to get in the water and swim with them again. -Rich

Wrong Again!

July 14, 2014 in Neiafu, Vava’u Tonga

We were wrong back in May of 2012 when we thought by leaving late to cross the South Pacific, we’d miss the crowds.  It seems that while we missed the crowds from North America, there were still tons of boats coming across the Pacific from the Panama Canal – at least more than enough to make for crowded anchorages.

We were wrong this year about Tonga.  We thought getting here early, before the puddle jumpers, we would have quiet anchorages all to ourselves.  Nope.  It seems that while only one in four people in New Zealand own boats, the rest of them borrowed boats and are also here in Tonga cruising.  Sprinkled in with that is a liberal helping of Aussies as well as cruisers from all other parts of the world who thought as we did.  I offer proof of what I say.  Here’s a screenshot from our chartplotter from yesterday.  See for yourself! -Rich

Auckland?  Los Angeles Harbor?  Sydney?  No.  Vava'u Tonga.
Auckland? Los Angeles Harbor? Sydney? No. Vava’u Tonga.

And this doesn’t even count all the boats without AIS!