Swimming Amidst Motus in Fulaga (Fiji)

August 29, 2013

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Today we did more exploring in the lagoon. As the crow flies, it’s not that big, less than four miles across at its widest point. But along with the vast stretches of sand and shallow water are groups of motus, small rock islands. They range in size, some no larger than a boulder, while others are large enough to have their own beach (even multiple beaches). Sometimes a group’s islets are small and widely spaced, while others have formed a world unto themselves with a maze of waterways, hidden pools and beaches. I have no idea how long it would take to explore all these groups, but I have a theory that if a person were really determined, they could discover a new beach for each day of the year in these islets.

There was an intriguing group of motus near the pass we named Shark Pool. We took the dinghy over along with our gear. While the snorkeling wasn’t impressive, being in the water here was magical! Swimming in the clear, shallow, blue-green water amidst these rock islets was a once-in-a-lifetime experience. While there are a few places on earth like this, they’re rare, and we’d been fortunate to visit this one.

Below, a gallery of photos from our motu swim; you can click to enlarge and scroll. –Cyndi

Fifty Shades of Blue (Fulaga, Southern Lau Group, Fiji)

August 28, 2013

In the shallow lagoon between the sandspit and the rim of the atoll, the water would change color with the ebb and flow of the tide, the passing of clouds overhead, or the wind as it rippled across the water. The shades of blue were endless.

Looking at the multitude of pictures taken here as the water changed color, I’m sure there were at least 50 shades of blue, but I’ve pared it down to a gallery of 9 favorites (click on images to enlarge and scroll through them). I believe that, for many of us, seeing colors like this is good for the soul. I know it’s good for mine. –Cyndi

Fulaga, Fiji. Click for larger version.
Fulaga, Fiji. Click for larger version.

Snorkeling in Fulaga (Southern Lau Group, Fiji)

August 28, 2013

Today we went out to explore the snorkeling in the area, deciding to start with the beautiful blue pool we’d discovered earlier. It was just a matter of landing on the beach nearby and carrying our stuff since the walk wasn’t very long.

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Walking to the Blue Pool, Fulaga, Fiji.
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Looking out through the gap by the Blue Pool, Fulaga, Fiji
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The “Blue Pool” at Fulaga, Fiji

I didn’t think that pool could get any bluer, but today the breeze would catch the water and send a cascade of neon purple-blue ripples across its rich blue surface. With the low tide, there was plenty of white sand to set off those shades of aqua, cerulean, and electric blue. I’d put this on my “Small Wonders of the World” list, places which lack size and grandeur but are still remarkable. I could have watched the show of blues all day, but we were here to snorkel and headed into the water.

In the pool we found some large butterfly and surgeon fish, but they were pretty sparse. We decided to check out another pool further up, and while there were more fish there, we thought we could do better. There was a gap in atoll, and right outside was the large, well-protected area of water between the atoll and the reef that surrounds it. We expected that area to be teeming with life, but it would be a challenge to get there: we’d have to swim against the incoming current to get through the gap.

We tried and found that by staying under the ledge at one side, we could just make our way through. Outside, the water was well protected, dropping to maybe 10 feet deep. There were lots of coral formations, but most of the fish seemed to enjoy living amid the rocks along the wall of the atoll. They were large in size and number, including the biggest Picasso triggerfish we’ve ever seen.

We drifted along the outside wall of the atoll, not worried about getting back in because there were more gaps ahead. We soon spotted a large gap and headed that way. There we discovered the sort of snorkeling we’d hoped to find: a beautiful area with large rocks, huge coral formations, canyons, pillars and a lot of fish. (There was one pillar that looked like something out of a Disney fantasy, not like anything I’d ever seen.)

We let the current carry us in through the pass, and it felt like flying over a cliff above a small canyon full of fish and rock formations. The fifteen-foot depth made for darker blues and greens here, its own magical world. On the bottom rested a nurse shark, and from then on we called this “Shark Pool.”

Of course we wanted to go though this pass again and again; so we found a spot where we could find handholds in the coral to pull ourselves through the strong current of incoming water. It took some effort, but once we were through we could turn and ride the current in again, me flying over the pool from above while Rich went deeper, close above the canyon floor.

We got some video which doesn’t come close to doing this place justice, only getting snippets of the experience, but you can get the idea. I added on a bit of video from a small batch of coral in the lagoon. Mostly that area has sand bottom, but any patch of coral has its own fish community, much like this one. –Cyndi

Beach Party at the Sandspit (Fulaga, Fiji)

August 27, 2013

Every so often, people from the village throw a party for the cruisers, which takes place on the beach by the sandspit. All the attending cruisers contribute homemade dishes, while the villagers make their traditional foods. As it so happened, the village threw one of these events just after we moved to the Sandspit anchorage.

The party took place pretty early in the day. Each arriving dinghy was greeted by a group of very excited children, while the adults worked setting up food at the lean-to they’d prepped on the beach. At least seven boats had come over here for the party; so the cruisers were all busy meeting each other. Linda from Bright Angel brought the perfect thing for this party: inflated beach balls! The kids (and later some adults) had a great time playing with those!

It turned out to be a nice afternoon. We had a big potluck lunch with lots of good stuff. I was excited to try the local crab, but it turned out to be one of those crustaceans where you have to do an awful lot of work for a little bit of meat. With all the effort and the resulting cuts on my hand, I think the crab had its revenge. Otherwise it was a very enjoyable meal. Earlier there’d been a weaving class for the women, where we learned to weave our own nice serving plates for the lunches.

At one point, Rich and I broke off from the party to wander out onto the sandspit. The tide was low enough that it was only partly submerged, and we were able to walk way out around the anchorage on the finger of sand. Very cool! Below, a galley of photos from this day. (Click to enlarge and scroll.)

The Blue Pool (Fulaga, Fiji)

August 26, 2013

Today we went for a walk. At the sandspit, the beach takes a turn east and goes about a quarter mile to the outer rim of the atoll. Some of this rim has broken apart, creating a few gaps through which a person, maybe even a dinghy, could pass through. Even though you’d then be outside the atoll, the reef around the island forms a very effective barrier and keeps the water as protected and calm as it is on the inside. We figured this had great snorkeling potential.

We were struck by this area of the beach. It wasn’t very wide, but it had the sort of white sand and arching palm trees that have sold calendars around the world. The water off this beach was shallow and very colorful.

As we neared the outer rim, we turned a corner and found an area of rocks and pools between our beach and the outer rim. There was a good-size pass through to the outside, but what was most striking was the amazing color of the pool fronting the gap, the most rich and intense cobalt blue I have ever seen. Naturally we named it the Blue Pool. (Click to enlarge and scroll through the gallery below this post.)

We walked through about a foot of water to a tiny beach amid the boulders on the rim and discovered more small pools. We definitely planned to come back and do some snorkeling. –Cyndi

The blue pool at Fulaga, Fiji. Click to enlarge.
The blue pool at Fulaga, Fiji. Click to enlarge.